References in Vedas and the Vedantas to the cloth of gold suggest the antiquity of the Indian Kamkhab brocading though the technique may not have originated in India.
In the Artha Shastra, there is a mention of how during the Mauryan period (3rd century B.C.) workshops were established for the production of designed textiles.
The Ajanta paintings present a mystifying maze of textile patterns. It is difficult to identify the fabrics whether it is cotton, silk, or some other. But if a profound analysis is done, certain broad distinctions emerge. The most observed designs in the Ajanta textiles are the horizontal and vertical bands filled with geometrical designs like chevrons. Circles, stripes, or quite close to the designs found on the Burmese waist clothes.
Also, there are formal floral motifs and scrolls sometimes enlivened with processions of sacred geese or diagonal bands of these geese. Besides there are patterns made up of simple dots or groups of dots Stripes appear in three varieties. Beaded bands, and ladder patterns sometimes in combination with thick and small checks.
The textiles also show crosses, lozenges in horizontal bands, stars, diamond shapes, triangles, and tiny flowers. Sometimes the cloth simply has a border adorned by pearl strings or is embroidered. But very rarely does one come across animal or bird patterns.
Muslim and Knits
But there are enough instances of fine muslin cloth, worn exclusively by the royal ladies probably the Magnamsuka type which has been referred to by the ancient historian Bana, Even the ancient Creeks admired this cloth. So much that they used to compare it with the slough of serpents or the vapor from milk. One can visualize the sheer savoir fairs of the artists who created textiles of such finesse and excellence.
Apart from these, there are several specimens of cut and sewn garments. In one or two illustrations, even the stitches are transparently sketched.
Fashionable Women
The indoor costumes of women consisted of a waist cloth of varying length and texture, usually supported by a beaded or jeweled belt. Occasionally a breast cloth is seen and sometimes a muslin scarf. Some of the knee-length dresses are tight-fitting and open on one side or either side. Upper garments were not common but there are several examples of blouses, some long-sleeved. Some short-sleeved and even some sleeveless ones.
The Odhni was not worn to cover any part of the body, but as a playful lover’s gesture. The ghagra or the gathered skirt is conspicuously absent. Significantly, several lower garments worn by females resemble the typical Maharashtrian kashta type of sarees.
Men’s Clothes
The waist cloth was the chief costume of men, but hunters and forest dwellers wore a small loin cloth. Soldiers and horsemen wore long-sleeved tunics down to the knee. Jackets ended above the waist and were embroidered at the wrist, upper arm neck, and sometimes down the front.
In one of the frescoes in cave no. 1 a ceiling scene identified as the Persian embassy, some foreigners are shown wearing pointed caps, long-sleeved tight-fitting tunics, tight trousers, and boots. Other paintings show men wearing socks and mufflers.
The cave is strewn with an illustration of bedspreads with geometrical and tiny floral designs. Kings are shown either seated on ottomans or resting against bolsters decorated with dotted, floral, banded, or geometrical designs.
Nature and the environment have surely inspired the motifs and patterns of the Ajanta textiles. Stylized floral. geometric, linear, and diamond-shaped compositions in fascinating colors from nature abound. Large vivid geometrical shapes in intricate schemes of exciting tones of purple, yellow, and brown. Red, green, white, black, and Persian blue reflect a rare creativity accomplished with consummated skill.
Temptations of Mara
I felt Ajanta's paintings had a deeper content than would allow at first sight. A mere cursory study list is not sufficient to comprehend the spirit of Ajanta. Its eloquent line work is pregnantly expressive, magnifying the obscured and veiled lines of ornaments, anatomical particulars of the humans being accentuating their facial contours, lines, and profiles, flora and fauna, textiles if minutely studied are articulately elucidating the idiom, style, and diction so fluently, that a deep appreciative subreption of movement, bustle, and animation is aroused among the viewers.
Forces of Temporal Power
The line drawing and painting which genuinely impressed me and had me absorbed and ruminating was a fascinating recreation of the forces of temporal power, an illusion to dissuade the Buddha from his mission. Envisaged by the artists of Ajanta, the Temptation of Mara is a feast for any viewer who can penetrate its artistic grandeur and idiosyncrasy.
The storytelling quality of the painting, the unity of composition and the ingenuous disposition of the composition, and the ingenuous disposition of the figures attest to the mastery of the painter’s art. The human mind has visualized and conceived this scene, supported by fantasy, mythology, and legend so sublimely and flawlessly that it has reached a pinnacle of masterly creativity.
Temptations
This scene at Ajanta, painted in Cave 1, on the left wall of the antral, portrays Buddha practicing auspicing austerities which he knows are likely to lead him to the discovery of Truth. Initially, Mara sends his daughters to seduce the Buddha by singing and dancing but they return defeated. Then angry he creates a vision of demons, ugly, horrible creatures, with a thousand months, potbellied and deformed, drinking blood or devouring snakes, uttering inhuman cries, spreading darkness, armed with spears bows, and maces. This hallucination of malevolent elements proved ineffectual in confronting the supreme power of Buddha and the threatening elements only find themselves paralyzed with their arms bound to their sides.
Mara-Mephistopheles
The role of belief in Mara in Buddhist History appears to have been to provide a transition from popular nations to discarnate evil demons to the more abstract analysis of the human situation in more and more psychological terms. It showed a helpful way of understanding resistance to the holy life which a man might encounter but which he is assured can be overcome by following the Buddhist path. Like Mephistopheles or the devil of Western religious thought, Mara is regarded as a demoniac being who is an arch enemy of all who seeks to live the holy life, According to Buddhist tradition Mara sought to deflect the Buddha from attaining Nirvana.
This panel has succeeded in unraveling the mysteries of Ajanta painting which; give us an insight into the absolute mastery of the Ajanta artists over line work rather than painting. This painting is a masterpiece of the Ajanta artists. In these caves, there are scores of other paintings hitherto unnoticed by art levers, but it will take a day before can unveil them one by one.